Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Prada, Louise Gray, Marc Jacobs, Chris Benz, Tsimori Chisato
Stripes came in all many shapes and sizes this season. Many were bold, graphic and solid (Prada, Marni, Louise Gray, Cynthia Rowley,) some nautical (Tsimori Chisato,Clements Ribeiro) and others like Marc Jacobs and Chris Benz were inspired by 70's and 50's vintage respectively. And Kenzo also showed softened stripes on his Japanese textiles.
Friday, October 15, 2010
Photo-based florals were a strong presence on the runways, as well as the photographic fruit and interiors that we wrote about previously. As direct digital printing on fabric becomes more accessible, the freedom to use unlimited color and detail opens up creative possibilities. We especially loved Akris's oversize petals and irises, and Isaac Mizrahi's muted blues. Jil Sander's giant flower on the waist went along with Marc Jacob's big waist embellishments and color blocking. Gaultier used palms tree photos (not strictly a floral but close enough) to create a tropical jungle effect.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
In a bizarre fashion week twish (ha ha,) fruit prints burst onto the runways of not one, but 3 separate designers in Paris. Prada's sketches of bananas was vintagey and tropical, while Stella's and Wunderkind's prints were photo-based and printed digitally. Stella's citrus was collaged symmetrically. Wunderkind's cherries and equatorial fruits were tossed randomly with checks that look like picnic tablecloths. All these fruities were loud, punchy, and served up warm, with a clever wink.
Friday, October 8, 2010
Kenzo, United Bamboo, Louis Vuitton (x2), Dries Van Noten
Asian florals were a big presence at the Spring shows. Most notably, Louis Vuitton's glamorous gowns, which were of course styled flawlessly, in that signature Marc Jacobs fashion. Hair and makeup complimented the dark silky garments, creating a mood that conjured a smoke-filled secret society in Shanghai. Dries Van Noten's florals, also on silks, were light and painterly. United Bamboo's trees, blossoms and birds were more folky and felt more playful. Kenzo used archive Japanese prints, which were draped, layered and collaged with both precision and luxurious softness. For next Spring, get ready for peonies, cherry blossoms, chrysamthemums, and birds.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Kenzo's designer Antonio Marras is a master at mixing cultures and ethnic prints. Here, the influence is Japan and his native Sardinia. Japanese prints are layered against earthy textures, creating neverending volume and depth. The overall look is earthy comfort punctuated by pops of brightness and excitement. The word that keeps coming to mind is Balance.
Located in Estonia and designed by Arhitektid Muru & Pere, the Suurupi House Extension brings clever patterning into the exterior architecture of a previously box shaped home. Wooden panels criss-cross to form a textural layer that shimmers with light at night.
Monday, October 4, 2010
There haven't been too many florals to get excited about this season, but Cacharel's ink and watercolor soaked flowers are too gorgeous to ignore. The painting style is soft and abstracted, and the black ink stains give it contrast and edge. Brights like tomato red, Klein blue, and lemon yelllows punctuate muted greys and browns, black and white. Prints are also mixed seamlessly together, creating a romantic but modern effect.