AW10 | Patchwork

Louise Gray, vintage 1930s crazy quilt

vintage quilt made from denim, Erdem, Peter Pilotto

Michael van der Ham, Mary Katrantzou, vintage flour sack quilt

Although there is talk that we're slowly moving out of our current recession, one can't help feeling a bit of nostalgia for previous times of hardships. Patching together fabric - from flour sacks to denim - has been a common practice in bygone eras. Could it be that designers this season are responding to this and are creating a modern interpretation? At any rate, you can have your pick of styles varying from Louise Gray's bold ethnic concoctions to the more sophisticated montage by Erdem, or choose a romantic floral as composed by Michael van der Ham, Mary Katrantzou or Rodarte.

Fall 10: Marble-licious

Matthew Williamson, Basso & Brooke, Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson. Background: Pattern People
Matthew Williamson's marbleized prints are painterly and brushy, Basso & Brooke's look earthy like geodes and rock formations, and Mary Katrantzou's take on a more Rococco feel. In all instances, there is a psychedelic over-the-top element that makes us want to dive right in.

AW10 | Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou AW10, Antoine Watteau Pilgrimage on the Isle of Cythera 1717

Once again designer, Mary Katrantzou, delivers a stunning collection of innovative prints. Pushing her boundary, Katrantzou escapes from her kaleidoscopic patterns of past to bring us a Rococo inspired series capturing the spirit of Napoleon. Medals, ribbons and brocade elements mutate with a melting effect into soft forms while bold black and white stripes create a juxtaposition to the prints. Breathtaking!

PRINT TRENDS AW10 | Texture

Threeasfour x 3, Chris Benz

Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte

Using texture to create patterns, designers this season loop lanky cables, dangling fringe and lace-like layers into three dimensional designs. Both Marc by Marc Jacobs and Rodarte dip into the Victorian era with lady-like lace and crochet references in tea stained colors. While on the other side of the spectrum, Threeasfour and Chris Benz bring a darker, more textural interpretation. The ever famous Cosby sweater, which has re-emerged as an influence across fashion the last few seasons, reappears again. Although inspired by alchemy, Threeasfour's collection has a slightly reminiscent feel to Bill's woven wonders...that is if they had been dipped in gold, copper or lead.

Long Live McQueen

Prints from McQueen's last show SP 2010

Each season, we're always blown away by Alexander McQueen's prints. Innovative, futuristic and unexpected, his collections marry fashion and print design in a fresh and inspirational manner. We're sad to hear of his recent death and hope his fashion house will continue his legacy. RIP McQueen!

Pre-Fall 10: Giles

Giles Deacon's show took place in a porcelain factory, with industrial parts and metal music clinking in the background, models adorned in fluorescent nylon wigs, and their beautifully draped dresses were printed with giant wrenches and paper clips. This twisted landscape reminds me of the Industrial movement of the 90's, and also in mood, the movie, A Clockwork Orange. The collection is anything but retro, however. The silhouettes of these garments are sexy and sophisticated, and the mood is very now, which of course includes anything 90s.

Maharam Digital Project

Paul Smith, Fred Tomascelli, Markus Lennenbrink for Maharam
Maharam has teamed up with artists and designers to create a line of digitally-printed wallpapers that can be used in commercial and residential spaces. It seems a logical yet innovative step from art hanging on walls in frames to art as wallpaper, and also a good use of digital technonologies that have recently become a real viable printing option for wallpapers and even rugs and textiles. Digital printing really opens up all the options, without limitation on color, or levels of gradation. Since 1902, Maharam has always been a pioneer in the world of interiors and textiles, and although the brand is huge and recognized the world over, the spirit of forward thinking still shines through in 2010.

Pre Fall 10 | Plaids

Miu Miu, Christian Dior, Vionnet, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu
background by Pattern People

A variation of plaids will be marching their way into stores this coming Fall. From retro to grunge, we'll have a plethora of options to choose from representing every era. My personal favorite is the reinterpreted version presented by Vionnet.