Thursday, September 30, 2010

Spring 11: Carven

You wouldn't know that Carven is actually a revival of a couturier from the last century. The designs look incredibly fresh and modern, with sleek dresses adorned with apocalyptic landscapes reminiscent of Christopher Kane's Resort 10 collection. Cutouts, quickly becoming a phenomenon this season, are also featured on this youthful and totally market-ready collection.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Spring 11: Moschino Cheap and Chic

A bright spot at Milan Fashion week, Moschino Cheap & Chic prints have a child-like exhuberance, with candy colors, large simple geometrics, and lots of mixed prints. The guests enjoyed pizza and prosecco before the show, and during the showing, models were smiling and blowing kisses. This refreshing joyfulness is reflected in the prints, with crafty flowers adorning gingham dresses and folky embroidery evoking simpler times. Howeve loud the prints appliques were, however, the garments were constructed with flow and sophistication, making them very wearable and extremely comfortable-looking on a grown up woman.
Ikat textiles, turbans, boots and jewels are just a few of the things you'll find in the upcoming exhibit on the influential artistic director Serge Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes. Opening September 25th at the V & A Museum, this show will be full of fanciful costumes created by the likes of Leon Bakst and Chanel. Known for his collaborations with musicians, designers and artists, Diaghilev combined their talents to form a sensational sensory experience that continues to influence the creative world today.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Spring 11: Cut-Outs

Cynthia Rowley, Marni, Emilio de la Moreno
Cut-outs are all over the runways, from New York to Milan. Here, we see some circular punch-outs revealing interesting textures underneath. We especially love the sharp modernity of Emilio de la Moreno's collection.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Spring 11: Mesh, Lace, and Sheer

Proenza Schouler, Erdem, Thakoon, Jonathan Saunders

Vivienne Tam, Alberta Ferreti, Erdem, Marchesa

Alberta Feretti, Emilio de la Moreno, Louise Gray, Nicole Farhi

Mesh, lace, and sheer fabrics are all over the runways this season. The lace trend shows no signs of tapering off, and we're mostly seeing traditional lace patterns with lots of feminine whites. For a more modern, sportier look, mesh appears on necklines, sleeves and all over garments. Especially beautiful is Thakoon's white mesh and see-through fabrics together. Sheer textiles appear as layers that soften and add dimension to prints behind them, and as scrims that just subtly (and sometimes not so subtley) reveal the skin behind it. The nice thing about all this sheer-ness is how skin is not just covered by the outfit, but becomes part of it.

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Spring 11: Erdem

Erdem's calicos and florals were inspired by his visits with Jane Pritchard, the curator of the upcoming Ballet Russe exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The folk patterns gain new life on these finely-tailored dresses, and the layered lace pieces are almost angelic in their loveliness. The pure beauty of Erdem's aesthetic is taken to new levels with this collection, combining old artwork with new silhouette to a state of pure loveliness.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Spring 11: Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou was a print innovator from her first collection just a couple seasons back, but she's really outdone herself this time. In fact, we haven't seen anything this exciting and innovative in a long time. Here, interiors have jumped from background to foreground, landing with precision onto beautifully-tailored dresses, and set off by tromp l'oille details like curtains drawing back, lamphshades as skirts, and wall sconces as necklaces. The effect is opulent and magical, and yet totally elegant and wearable.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Book | Matthew Williamson

Coinciding with an exhibition at Somerset House, the upcoming publication released in October on Matthew Williamson captures the colorful and pattern infused designs of this British fashion icon. This is sure to be another book to add to the shelf for pattern lovers.

Somerset House
13 Oct 2010 - 30 Jan 2011
Courtyard Rooms
Free admission

Friday, September 17, 2010

Spring 11: Marchesa

Marchesa wowed the crowds at New York Fashion Week with this stunning collection of dresses, and some harem-pant outfits. A sculptural lace cut-out dress that looked like it was made of stiff paper curled around the model like a Frank Gehry structure. Oversized painted florals reminiscent of china pattern adorned a sculptural blue dress. Then, there were the drapey gauzy numbers, hanging off lattices of jewels and chains. Every piece was like a work of art, new but also in line with the Marchesa lineage.

Spring 11: Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs

For Marc Jacob's premium line, the look is 100 percent Studio 54. The prints are optical and Missoni-esque, the fabrics look positively polyester, and the colors are burgundy, mustard, nude pink, and army green. For the take-down line Marc by Marc, there is a more modern infusion of bright color, drapey fabrics and a 40's influence. Nautical stripes play a role, and there are small-scale criss-crossed stripes that almost resemble a floral.

Thursday, September 16, 2010

Spring 11: Rodarte

The Mulleavy sisters have done it again, creating a layered and crisp collection that takes its inspiration from nature and the Redwoods of Northern California. China blue patterns, leather tooling, wood grain, and embossed crocodile all play a part in creating a sort of Old West/Goldrush look to the line.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Spring 11: Color Blocking

Prabal Gurung

Alexander Herscovich

Ohne Titel, Lela Rose (x2,) VPL

Color blocking makes a big presence at the New York shows, in lots of fun variations. Alexander Herscovitch takes his inspiration from the world of computer pixels, while Prabal Gurung dazzles with expertly placed shapes that zig zag around the body.

Spring 11: Cynthia Rowley

We blogged about dots recently and they're popping up all over the New York collections. Our favorites so far have been Cynthia Rowley's innies and outies. The physicality of the appliques is quite satisfying, like you want to tug at each one and run your hands up and down. The mix of business silhouette with the sheer stripes and circular holes is provacative and smart.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Spring 11: Fairy Tale

United Bamboo (x2,) Timo Wieland, Gary Graham
Fairy tale forests were invoked with United Bamboo's trees and birds. Timo Wieland's Little Red Riding hood has a twig-like landscape, and there is a darkness there despite the sky blue coat color. Gary Graham showed layered gauzy gothy outfits with a few thorny florals that conjured up an old-world gypsy feel.

Spring 11: Vivienne Tam

Some of our favorite prints from New York Fashion Week so far, are from Vivienne Tam's collection. The laces are varied and unique, with crocheted doilies as inspiration, and the ethnic mixed prints have some beautiful color and texture. Her inspirations ranged from Asian temple facades to Middle Eastern frescoes, and the overall feel looks comfortable, relaxed and natural.

Friday, September 10, 2010

Vena Cava x 2, Rachel Comey

Don your fashionable wares and head out to the runways to view the latest collections. New York's Spring/Summer 11 fashion week kicked off yesterday with shows by Vena Cava and Rachel Comey. We're already seeing some trends. Stay tuned as we'll bring you reports on the season's best print directions over the next few weeks.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Trend | Dots

background Liberty Fabric, model Pixie Market, shoes Acne, hosiery Bebaroque, headband Jennifer Ouellette, minipack Comme des Garcons

collage by turnedout, photo via styleontrack
We're seeing spots everywhere...and no, we're not feeling dotty. Black, white, navy, and gold – every shade appears to be represented. Choose your favorite and become part of the spot revolution.

Monday, September 6, 2010

Books: New Textile Design

There is a new book out called 'New Textile Design' issued by Zeixs Publishers. The book is not yet available, but we'll let you know when it is.

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Floral Clogs

Clockwise: Cape Cod Wildflowers Clog, Free People, Jeffrey Campbell, N.Y.L.A., No.6
We're certainly not advocating this look, although we're sure some people can pull it off, but as your diligent print reporters, we must present to you...the floral clog. Love it or hate it, the clog trend seems to be hanging around and gaining momentum. At least they're comfortable and there are some cool ones cropping up (see TopShop, Matt Bernson, even Uggs has some new ones that aren't too bad.) Where we draw the line though is with the slouchy floral Free People boot, whom we believe nobody can pull off. If you have, however, please send us pics! Or if you are rocking any floral clog really...

Sophisticated Plaids

Clockwise: Winter Tartan Front Pocket Small Yasmin Tote by Vivienne Westwood,
coin purse by Cole Haan Genevieve, lace Up Oxford Pump by Opening Ceremony.

It's back to school time again, but no Catholic schoolgirl plaids here. Prada and Peter Som work plaids onto vintage shapes while Ivan Grundahl drapes an oversized graphic plaid with an interesting fade. Accessories are also playing with the tartan pattern, and it seems the plaid trend is not going away any time soon. The nineties have only just begun...