Spring 11: Stripes

Prada, Louise Gray, Marc Jacobs, Chris Benz, Tsimori Chisato

Stripes came in all many shapes and sizes this season. Many were bold, graphic and solid (Prada, Marni, Louise Gray, Cynthia Rowley,) some nautical (Tsimori Chisato,Clements Ribeiro) and others like Marc Jacobs and Chris Benz were inspired by 70's and 50's vintage respectively. And Kenzo also showed softened stripes on his Japanese textiles.

Spring 11: Photo-based Florals

Jean Paul Gaultier, Isaac Mizrahi, Akris, Jil Sander. background: Pattern People

Photo-based florals were a strong presence on the runways, as well as the photographic fruit and interiors that we wrote about previously. As direct digital printing on fabric becomes more accessible, the freedom to use unlimited color and detail opens up creative possibilities. We especially loved Akris's oversize petals and irises, and Isaac Mizrahi's muted blues. Jil Sander's giant flower on the waist went along with Marc Jacob's big waist embellishments and color blocking. Gaultier used palms tree photos (not strictly a floral but close enough) to create a tropical jungle effect.

Spring 11: Fruit!

Stella McCartney, Wunderkind (x2), Prada

In a bizarre fashion week twish (ha ha,) fruit prints burst onto the runways of not one, but 3 separate designers in Paris. Prada's sketches of bananas was vintagey and tropical, while Stella's and Wunderkind's prints were photo-based and printed digitally. Stella's citrus was collaged symmetrically. Wunderkind's cherries and equatorial fruits were tossed randomly with checks that look like picnic tablecloths. All these fruities were loud, punchy, and served up warm, with a clever wink.

Spring 11: Asian Florals

Kenzo, United Bamboo, Louis Vuitton (x2), Dries Van Noten

Asian florals were a big presence at the Spring shows. Most notably, Louis Vuitton's glamorous gowns, which were of course styled flawlessly, in that signature Marc Jacobs fashion. Hair and makeup complimented the dark silky garments, creating a mood that conjured a smoke-filled secret society in Shanghai. Dries Van Noten's florals, also on silks, were light and painterly. United Bamboo's trees, blossoms and birds were more folky and felt more playful. Kenzo used archive Japanese prints, which were draped, layered and collaged with both precision and luxurious softness. For next Spring, get ready for peonies, cherry blossoms, chrysamthemums, and birds.

Spring 11: Kenzo

Kenzo's designer Antonio Marras is a master at mixing cultures and ethnic prints. Here, the influence is Japan and his native Sardinia. Japanese prints are layered against earthy textures, creating neverending volume and depth. The overall look is earthy comfort punctuated by pops of brightness and excitement. The word that keeps coming to mind is Balance.

Spring 11: Cacharel

There haven't been too many florals to get excited about this season, but Cacharel's ink and watercolor soaked flowers are too gorgeous to ignore. The painting style is soft and abstracted, and the black ink stains give it contrast and edge. Brights like tomato red, Klein blue, and lemon yelllows punctuate muted greys and browns, black and white. Prints are also mixed seamlessly together, creating a romantic but modern effect.

Spring 11: Carven

You wouldn't know that Carven is actually a revival of a couturier from the last century. The designs look incredibly fresh and modern, with sleek dresses adorned with apocalyptic landscapes reminiscent of Christopher Kane's Resort 10 collection. Cutouts, quickly becoming a phenomenon this season, are also featured on this youthful and totally market-ready collection.

Spring 11: Moschino Cheap and Chic

A bright spot at Milan Fashion week, Moschino Cheap & Chic prints have a child-like exhuberance, with candy colors, large simple geometrics, and lots of mixed prints. The guests enjoyed pizza and prosecco before the show, and during the showing, models were smiling and blowing kisses. This refreshing joyfulness is reflected in the prints, with crafty flowers adorning gingham dresses and folky embroidery evoking simpler times. Howeve loud the prints appliques were, however, the garments were constructed with flow and sophistication, making them very wearable and extremely comfortable-looking on a grown up woman.

Spring 11: Cut-Outs

Cynthia Rowley, Marni, Emilio de la Moreno

Cut-outs are all over the runways, from New York to Milan. Here, we see some circular punch-outs revealing interesting textures underneath. We especially love the sharp modernity of Emilio de la Moreno's collection.

Spring 11: Erdem

Erdem's calicos and florals were inspired by his visits with Jane Pritchard, the curator of the upcoming Ballet Russe exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. The folk patterns gain new life on these finely-tailored dresses, and the layered lace pieces are almost angelic in their loveliness. The pure beauty of Erdem's aesthetic is taken to new levels with this collection, combining old artwork with new silhouette to a state of pure loveliness.

Spring 11: Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou was a print innovator from her first collection just a couple seasons back, but she's really outdone herself this time. In fact, we haven't seen anything this exciting and innovative in a long time. Here, interiors have jumped from background to foreground, landing with precision onto beautifully-tailored dresses, and set off by tromp l'oille details like curtains drawing back, lamphshades as skirts, and wall sconces as necklaces. The effect is opulent and magical, and yet totally elegant and wearable.

Spring 11: Marchesa

Marchesa wowed the crowds at New York Fashion Week with this stunning collection of dresses, and some harem-pant outfits. A sculptural lace cut-out dress that looked like it was made of stiff paper curled around the model like a Frank Gehry structure. Oversized painted florals reminiscent of china pattern adorned a sculptural blue dress. Then, there were the drapey gauzy numbers, hanging off lattices of jewels and chains. Every piece was like a work of art, new but also in line with the Marchesa lineage.

Spring 11: Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Marc by Marc Jacobs

For Marc Jacob's premium line, the look is 100 percent Studio 54. The prints are optical and Missoni-esque, the fabrics look positively polyester, and the colors are burgundy, mustard, nude pink, and army green. For the take-down line Marc by Marc, there is a more modern infusion of bright color, drapey fabrics and a 40's influence. Nautical stripes play a role, and there are small-scale criss-crossed stripes that almost resemble a floral.

Spring 11: Rodarte

The Mulleavy sisters have done it again, creating a layered and crisp collection that takes its inspiration from nature and the Redwoods of Northern California. China blue patterns, leather tooling, wood grain, and embossed crocodile all play a part in creating a sort of Old West/Goldrush look to the line.

Spring 11: Cynthia Rowley

We blogged about dots recently and they're popping up all over the New York collections. Our favorites so far have been Cynthia Rowley's innies and outies. The physicality of the appliques is quite satisfying, like you want to tug at each one and run your hands up and down. The mix of business silhouette with the sheer stripes and circular holes is provacative and smart.

Spring 11: Fairy Tale

United Bamboo (x2,) Timo Wieland, Gary Graham

Fairy tale forests were invoked with United Bamboo's trees and birds. Timo Wieland's Little Red Riding hood has a twig-like landscape, and there is a darkness there despite the sky blue coat color. Gary Graham showed layered gauzy gothy outfits with a few thorny florals that conjured up an old-world gypsy feel.

Spring 11: Vivienne Tam

Some of our favorite prints from New York Fashion Week so far, are from Vivienne Tam's collection. The laces are varied and unique, with crocheted doilies as inspiration, and the ethnic mixed prints have some beautiful color and texture. Her inspirations ranged from Asian temple facades to Middle Eastern frescoes, and the overall feel looks comfortable, relaxed and natural.

Spring 11 Menswear: Checks and Plaids

Issey Miyake x 3, Missoni, Comme des Garcons, Walter Van Beirendonck, Comme des Garcons, Issey Miyake

Typical of menswear, tons of plaids and checks re-appear this season but with some interesting twists. Issey Miyake explores the classic plaid with hand painting and transparency, creating a softer look. Comme des Garcons takes a hard edge, framing black and white checkered tees with red striped jackets, and interspersing checks with skulls.

Spring 11 Menswear: Splatter

Jean Paul Gaultier, Dries Van Noten x 2

Conjuring up Jackson Pollack, Gaultier makes splatter look tough and gestural. Dries Van Noten's classic white shirts look like inks, blood-like fluids, and motor oil has been thrown onto them in an angry gesture.